LANVIN – 1950's – Present
Jeanne Lanvin (b. Jeanne-Marie Lanvin, Paris, January 1, 1867-d. Paris, July 6, 1946), French fashion designer. Lanvin became known for her mother-and-daughter outfits and exquisite robes de style, as well as her modern and global approach to the fashion industry. Lanvin was the eldest of 11 children. At age 16, she was an apprentice milliner at Madame Felix in Paris; then trained at dressmaker Talbot and, 1889, set up as a milliner at 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore.
Jeanne Lanvin married the Henri-Emile-Georges di Pietro and gave birth to a daughter, Marguerite, who became a talented opera singer and eventually became the director of the Lanvin fashion house. 1925, Marguerite married the Comte Jean de Polignac Paris, June 11, 1888 Paris, October 22, 1943 who rebaptised her to become the Comtess Marie-Blanche de Polignac Paris, August 31, 1897 Paris, February 14, 1958. Jeanne Lanvin made such beautiful clothes for the child that they began to attract the attention of a number of wealthy people who requested copies for their own daughters. Soon, Lanvin was making dresses for their mothers, and some of the most famous names in Europe were included in the clientele of her new boutique on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore, Paris. 1909, Lavin joined the Syndicat de la Couture, which marked her formal status as a couturiere.
1903, she divorced Pietro and, 1907, married Xavier Melet, a journalist at the Temps newspaper and later the French consul in Manchester.
From 1923, the Lanvin empire included a dye factory in Nanterre. 1920s, Lavin opened shops devoted to home decor, menswear, furs and lingerie, but her most significant expansion was the creation of Lanvin Parfums SA in 1924 and the introduction of her signature fragrance Arpege in 1927, inspired by the sound of her daughter's practising her scales on the piano.
Lanvin commissioned Albert–Armand Rateau (1884–1938) to decorate her apartment at 16 rue Barbet–de–Jouy, Paris, and villas at Vesinet. The living, boudoir and bathroom of the apartment was reassembled in 1985 in the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, Paris. For this domicile, Rateau designed some remarkable 1920–22 furniture in vert–de–gris bronze. 1921–22, Rateau was manager of Lanvin–Sport and also design the Lanvin spherical La Boule perfume flacon for Arpege of about 1925–34 (still produced, originally by the Manufacture Nationale de Sevres) is imprinted with Paul Iribe gold image of 1907 of Lanvin and her daughter Marguerite. Rateau also designed Lanvins fashion house and managed the Lanvin–Decoration department of interior design (established 1920) in the main store on the rue du Faubourg Saint–Honore. (Mel Byars, 2004, p. 614.)
One of the most influential designers of the 1920's and '30s, Jeanne Lanvin(s skilful use of intricate trimmings, virtuoso embroideries and beaded decorations in clear, light, floral colors became a Lanvin trademark.
When Lanvin died in 1946, ownership of the firm was ceded to daughter Marie–Blanche, who shared management of the firm from 1942 with a cousin and then a fashion–industry expert. Because she was childless when she died in 1958, the ownership of the House of Lanvin went to a cousin, Yves Lanvin. (See Directors and Officiers Since Jeanne Lanvin below.)
The company has shuttled from here and there, beginning in March 1989 when Britain(s Midland Bank bought a stake in the company from the family. The bank brought in Leon Bressler to revamp the firm(s faded image. However, February 1990, Midland backed out and sold Lanvin to Orcofi, the French holding company led by the Vuitton family. From Orcofi, 50% of the House of Lanvin was acquired by L'Oreal in 1994, 66% in 1995 and 100% in 1996. Under L'Oreal's far-too-diverse umbrella, an array of CEO's who circulate within the French fashion industry directed the company.
August 2001, Lanvin, the oldest fashion house still in operation, was taken private again by investor group Harmonie S.A., headed by Mrs. Shaw-Lan Wang, a Taiwanese media magnate. And, October 2001, Alber Elbaz was appointed the Lanvin artistic director for all activities, including interiors, and he has conducted his responsibilities in a highly personal, hands-on manner. 2006, he introduced new packaging for the fashion house, featuring a forget-me-not flower color, Lanvin's favorite shade which she purportedly saw in a Fra Angelico fresco. (Suzy Menkes, 2005.)
1 Directors and Officers Since Jeanne Lanvin
2 Designers Since Jeanne Lanvin
Directors and Officers Since Jeanne Lanvin
1946–1950, Lanvin's daughter Marie-Blanche de Polignac, owner and director
1942–1950, Marie–Blanche's cousin Jean Gaumont–Lanvin (Colombes, 1908–Versailles, 1988), director general
1950–1955, Daniel Gorin (Paris, 1891 Paris, 1972), director general
1959, Marie-Blanche's cousin Yves Lanvin, owner; Madame Yves Lanvin, president
1989–1990, Leon Bressler, chairperson
1990–1993, Michel Pietrini, chairperson
1993–1995, Loic Armand, chairperson
1995–2001, Gerald Asaria, chairperson
2001–2004, Jacques Levy, director general
Designers Since Jeanne Lanvin
1946–1958, Marie-Blanche de Polignac, director general and designer
1950–1963, Castillo (b. Antonio Canovas del Castillo del Rey, 1908 d. 1984), women's collections
1960–1980, Bernard Devaux, hats, scarves, haute couture; women's "Diffusions" line 1963 to 1980
1964–1984, Jules-Francois Crahay (Liege, 1917 to 1988), haute couture collections and "Boutique de Luxe"
1972, Christian Benais, men's ready-to-wear collection
1976–1991, Patrick Lavoix, men's ready-to-wear collections
1981–1989, Maryll Lanvin, ready-to-wear, first haute couture in 1985 and women's "Boutique" collections
1989–1990, Robert Nelissen, women's ready-to-wear collections
1990–1992, Claude Montana, five haute-couture collections
1990–1992, Eric Bergere, women's ready-to-wear collections
1992–2001, Dominique Morlotti, women's and men's ready-to-wear collections
1996–1998, Ocimar Versolato, women's ready-to-wear collections
1998–2002, Cristina Ortiz, women's ready-to-wear collections
From 2002, Alber Elbaz, artistic director of all creative activities
From 2003, Martin Krutzki, designer of men's ready-to-wear
2005–present, Lucas Ossendrijver, Designer of men's pret-a-porter
Chevalier de l'Order de la Legion d'Honneur, to Jeanne Lanvin, 1926
Officier de l'Order de la Legion d'Honneur, to Jean Lanvin, 1938
Five Des d'Or awards (three to Francois Crahay, 1977, 1981 and 1984; two to Claude Montana, 1990 and 1992)
Moroccan born Alber Elbaz is the current designer for Lanvin he has worked for Geoffrey Beene, Guy Laroche and Yves Saint-Laurent before joining Lanvin in 2001
The label is now a favourite among celebrities such as Demi Moore, Nicole Kidman, Juilanne Moore and Sarah Michelle-Gellar's