The one thousand léguas the treasures of high jewelry, the jewel-seam offers a score to parades of fashion. In this universe of freedom, mixing strass and semi-precious stones, the name of Robert Goossens symbolizes, twenty years, a degree of excellence French.
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The world efêmero the seams, the creations of Robert Goossens refer to the oldest object the luxury of humanity: a jewel. Mixing the false and true, working their inspirations in the great bazaar of Antiquity and the Middle Ages, Persian dynasties of the capitals of Romanesque churches Catalan, that the great Coco Chanel called "my Byzantine barbaric" is a true creator who refuses this title . If your jewelry fascinated for a long time customers of Chanel and Balenciaga, they decorate currently the collections of Yves Saint-Laurent, Dior, Thierry Mugler and Sonia Rykiel, and even if some of them have already given back to the world, these adornments works are a craftsman of great talent who always refused to proclaim an artist.
Son of a fundidor, Robert Goossens, who was born in the neighborhood of artisans, the Marais, began in different offices: casting, jewelry, gold, engraving, estampa ... As each jewel called his technique, he explained dominate all or reencontrá them when they were lost. In 1960, encounter with Gabrielle Chanel revolutionized its existence. "Mademoiselle" afeiçoou to that simple man whose hands of gold would give life, for twenty years, their fantasies more mad.
Collection after collection, Robert Goossens became "the silversmiths of Chanel." An exchange has been established: it showed its projects, Mademoiselle guiava their inspiration. Presilha hair trançada with threads of gold and silver, engastada with an emerald; pendants of scholarship with a cause for "lion-sun" and "earth-moon" Crosses "bizantinas" in crystal ... Thousands of women used, without knowing, their creations.
The jewels "barbaric", heavy and bulky in vogue today in many boutiques, are distant descendants of those early creations; nobody was copied more than Robert Goossens ... While with the death of Coco Chanel has been removed from the high seam, now he is returning to the activity for Yves Saint-Laurent and other big names of fashion.
Installed in La Plaine Saint-Denis, north of Paris, the Ateliers Goosseus house about fifty people and are considered the best trained in Europe. The most diverse nationalities, are there in a single word: "competence. Assuming personally the training of employees, Robert Goossens clearly put their success in the service of the working craft remain French.
Here, the crisis craft never existed. Be when it comes to confeccionar twelve thousand brooches of gold for Dior or a single crystal trophy at the rock for the French Federation of Fencing, the quality of the jewelry's quality comes first human. The tasks are made more diverse a frank atmosphere of camaraderie. Here, a bracelete is cut in the mass of a block of tin. There is carved the "lost wax" in slabs of silicon. But below, are prepared the way for the foundry. Cachos of bijuterias pendem in baths of gold.
Every trip I make, Robert Goossens never ceases to bring some kilos (sometimes several tonnes) of stones: sapphires, ametistas, rubis, coral ... His favorite is the crystal of rock, it was the first to mount in jewel. It is a kind of stone delicate and low-cost whereas the bijuterias the seam-jewelry real cost of insurance would have a very high ... These trimmings - fantasy were introduced by Coco Chanel in fashion, creative paradox that loved mixing the "rich" and poor. The creations of Robert Goossens followed that direction. While the piece reserved for Mademoiselle was in gold and real stones, the imitations for the mannequins were so perfect that everyone is enganava. All the style Goossens left there. "I am the Facteur Cheval (1) of the jewel," he proclaims. "I use a little of what Byzantine and one of etrusco, Celtic or Egyptian ... And get my cocktail Goossens." Goossens. "
Today is for your butique, in the avenue George V, he reserves his most personal creations. Luminária of halogen with crystal set in center of the olive branches in bronze; cutlery "coral" in copper; trimmings barbarians in bronze and pencil lazúli ... And when these crosses with the names of which brindou many high-sewing, all from a single piece, offered by Chanel for more than twenty years ...
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